What I Want (updated)

So I've been writing recently that I wanted to obtain either a Sony A7 (possibly A7 II) or Fuji X-E3. I've been doing some more research and have come to the conclusion that probably the Fuji would be a better choice. I base this on all factors, including weight, features, price, value, etc. I want to achieve! I want to achieve the incredible Brenizer method which I so tried with my old SLR camera using a focal length of 55mm at f/5.6. Now this combination(s) is different. Here you have values of f/1.2 and f/1.4 instead of f/5.6; now that's a big difference. But what does that mean anyways? I'm trying to achieve a significant amount of Brenizer, or defocus, using a wide angle lens. Unfortunately, if I opt for a wide lens such as about 35mm or wider, then I'd need to have a crazy aperture of about f/1.0 or less which just isn't available in the current lens selection. That brought me to something interesting. I came past an article about the best lenses for a Sony A7 under $500 ($499?). Many of these lenses, however are vintage and so for most of them, you can only find a used version. The best lens that I came past so far is a 58mm f/1.2. Upon stitching a panorama made up of multiple vertoramas, you can obtain some neat effects which are caused by the unusually shallow DOF. I recently had a chance (although not a pleasant one) to go to the park. There, I tried out the Brenizer effect with my puny RX100 II, which has a 1" sensor. To my dismay, the results after stitching in panorama software were anything but perfect. Not only did I discover that not all of the images would align (I didn't have time then to use my tripod), but I also discovered that at least one of the exposures was blurry due to camera shake, which leads to a less than ideal result at the end. of the process. However, I have learned something. I've learned, because of experience, that the Sony RX100 seems to be unnecessarily insensitive to light. It was about 3 am when I took the photos, on an overcast day on about the 5th of November, and each exposure was 1/30th of a second. Sure, blame me for using manual mode, however, I had to because that's what's necessary in order to achieve this effect. Since underexposing can easily become important during the imaging process, it's pretty freaking important to use a camera with a high dynamic range, unless you have an extremely powerful flash or enormous reflectors. I'm hoping that by going full frame and having a faster lens aperture at 50mm, that I can achieve the Brenizer effect even if focusing far away, though that really is more difficult in practice than it is either on paper or to be said. That's about all I've got. See you next time on thenewblogs.